The Stories We Share
Wish you could be in Italy right now? Just like you, our thoughts turn to our best memories for inspiration and encouragement, especially during difficult times. So we return to Italy again and again, even if only in our minds. In a truly Italian spirit we invite you to do the next best thing to being there: read some captivating stories here, sip a little vino rosso, maybe cook some pasta and connect with like-minded family and friends.
Preserve, celebrate, share... these are the values our volunteer writers embrace when contributing to this brand new blog. We’ll share our stories and memories. And your feedback will be much appreciated too, since without you our memories of rural Italy will not come alive.
One of the gifts of our travels together is the opportunity to create connections with each other and the people we meet. Sometimes the connection inspires action. Such was the case with one of our travelers in the spring of 2024.
It is July 2024 and I am in Minneapolis for an art residency. How does this happen? Above all thanks to Anna Bonavita of Esperienza, who in 2022 brought a group of American collectors to my studio in Faenza.
Once again, the multi-hued fall leaves are pirouetting in the air and it is time for reflections. For me, Thanksgiving is the best of all holidays, and at Esperienza, we have so much for which to be grateful.
The floodwaters have receded, after historic flooding in Romagna in May 2023. But the work will continue for months, and years to come.
Thanks to the contributions of our generous followers, Esperienza has been able to send financial support to a variety of organizations and individuals impacted by the damage, as they work to rebuild and restore their community. We offer here a summary of the ways in which our funds will help.
My name is Elena Campacci. I am a woman and mother and daughter; a woman farmer, basket maker and educator. I believe in dreams and in the Earth. I believe in human relationships. I believe that daily actions done with the heart – respecting and listening to all that is alive – can really change the world, first within us and then around us.
If this land will soon raise its head from the mud, it will be due to the many volunteers who are working tirelessly to rebuild what has been lost. According to estimates by the Region of Emilia-Romagna, there are at least 3,000 individuals who have stepped forward, to which are added 2,000 volunteers from the Civil Protection and various associations. But these are only those who have “registered” as volunteers, through municipalities and groups.
Today, as I write, Romagna is on its knees. After two years of extreme drought the month of May has brought almost 2 feet of rain (500 mm) two big flash floods. The towns of Faenza, Cesena, Forlì, some parts of Ravenna are under water, as well as smaller municipalities and even the arcades of the Via Saffi in central Bologna. The devastation is massive: electricity blackouts, telephone lines out of order, trains haywire, all leading to the anguish fueled by the isolation of entire areas.
Fifteen years and a lifetime ago our family of five—my wife, our three school-aged children and I—lived in Italy. It was our la dolce vita period. That experience reawakened a love for many things—family, simplicity, beauty, adventure, and notably, all things food-related. Upon returning to my American home, even as I resumed a conventional career and lifestyle, I was changed. Among other things, I spent more hours creating in the kitchen, relishing every moment. I was even inspired to enroll in a formal culinary arts training program. Life continued, enriched.
This is dedicated to the people of the mountains around the town of Santa Sofia at the border of Romagna and Tuscany. Don Zanchini, a young man who had just been appointed parish priest of Pietrapazza, tells us about his first Christmas in the remote mountain parish almost 100 years ago…
How can a piece of cloth, even if it is natural linen, beautifully stamp-printed in an ancient tradition, mean so much to a person? Well, let me tell you.
During our Ravenna tour we met the contemporary mosaic artist Marco De Luca in his studio. We expected to be impressed by this highly respected master, yet the time spent in his studio left more than a lasting impression on us. Perhaps it even changed the way we look at art objects and artists. Modest and reserved, now in his early 70s, De Luca had just created a large-scale mosaic for the church of Pegognaga, which was partially destroyed by an earthquake. The church was originally built in the 1950’s and was slated for demolition when they called upon De Luca to create a mosaic for the new construction they envisioned.
Having now returned from my late summer travels in Romagna. I’m pleased to say it was a month of deep immersion and unexpected creativity, filling me with great energy for the time ahead.
Much of my time was spent with our adventurous and inspiring Esperienza travelers as we explored the region and co-created so many beautiful moments together during our new Art, Cuisine and Language tours.
I just returned from Esperienza’s first tours to Emilia Romagna in three years, and I want to share some very good news…
As I’ve mentioned before, I’ve been in Italy these past few months. All through the long isolation, sadness and uncertainty of Covid I have been dreaming of Italy. Throughout the past 18 months, I have promised myself at the first real possibility I will travel: I will not delay any longer visiting and physically being present with my friends there. And luckily I have been here since August - living in Cesena, the city which was my home for a while in pre-pandemic times. It also has given me a chance to visit the places we’ll be going to in 2022 and reconnect with the friends we’ll be seeing when we return in 2022 with Esperienza.
Being back in Italy is, well, a blast! And in August, there is an abundance of cultural events! Plus, everyone is in an especially good mood because they are already on or are anticipating an upcoming vacation. For me this time, in the very memorable August of 2021, it all started with the Festa Artusiana – a 9-day culinary marathon from July 31st to August 8th. It has taken place since 1997 in Forlimpopoli, Emilia Romagna, and includes a celebration of the birthday of Pellegrino Artusi, the author of the Italian cooking bible and therefore the "father" of Italian cuisine. I was invited to participate by Esperienza collaborator and Festa Artusiana key organizer, Casa Artusi, the first cultural center in Italy dedicated completely to home cooking.
It’s been two very long years since I last visited Italy. Though I suspect much has changed, I am looking forward to those things that will likely never change: the stunning landscape, the fresh, locally sourced food, and the people who animate and make all of Italy’s magic possible.
I vividly remember my European grandmother gathering young nettles, sorrel and fiddleheads in the woods near our village. “After winter we need all these vitamins and minerals, the nettles will make you strong” she would say. The hint of sour in the taste of sorrel soup and the mild bitterness of risotto with nettles were so different from our winter fare, they remain imprinted in my memory.
March marks the beginning of spring, hope and joy. It is also in March we celebrate the birthdays of both Lora and Tonino Guerra who continue to inspire Esperienza with their passion and dedication to beauty found in small places. Both poets are an indelible part of Pennabilli but one could feel their influence way beyond the physical boundaries of the Italian town. They see themselves as a bridge connecting people to Italy and to a culture and way of life they cherished.
Esperienza is Pennabilli and Pennabilli is Esperienza. At least that’s how I see it. The comfort, simplicity and beauty of the town and its people inform all that Esperienza does. It’s as if Anna and the rest of the Esperienza team ask themselves with each program and with every detail hidden within that program, whether in Italy or America … “how would our friends in Pennabilli feel about this? Would they be proud of how we are representing Italy? Representing them?” It’s a brilliant guide post. And lucky me…
On a brutally cold, yet sunny February day in 2021, I called Lora Guerra, the poet and wife of one of Italy’s most important poets and screenplay writers Tonino Guerra. Russian by birth and upbringing, Lora has been living in Pennabilli for decades. I wanted to hear her thoughts on love. In the depths of winter now more than ever, we need to be reminded of the “invincible summer” living inside each of us. I could not think of anyone else who could express it better than Lora, through vivid stories about loving life in its many facets and reincarnations: a man, a place, friends, art, nature, animals, poetry and music.
Our instructor Emanuela delivered Nick and me to Fabrizio at Bel Fico, one of Pennabilli’s favorite restaurants located on the charming town square. Ostensibly, our assignment was to “work” alongside Fabrizio and his staff for an hour or so, but in fact we were there to have a chance to talk with real Italians in a natural environment. The place was empty when we arrived at 5:00 PM, but that soon changed as local patrons began filling the barstools and benches. Fabrizio was a fabulous host, attentively introducing us to his patrons as he deftly pulled shots of espresso and poured glasses of wine for his guests.
Panettone!!! The great bread reserved for the Christmas festivities has more than any other conquered Italia. It has symbolic value in her gastronomic culture. It is at the heart of every gathering. Panettone is a must at every holiday table. Is it because of a happy and lucky combination of ingredients such as raisins, candied citrus, and vanilla which are said to bring us good fortune? Or is it the communion of wonderful ingredients of mother yeast, rich egg yolks, and pasture sweet cream butter? Or could it be that this ethereal cake transcends community by fragrance and flavor, new and old; it restores us during the most cold/ dead season?
Many thanks to Team Esperienza for the 2020 Cooking with the Seasons - Natale class. It was wonderful, easy to follow and I felt as if I was right there, in the kitchen, in Italy! I was waiting for a cup of espresso. I had to pay attention as I’m not sure what I was thinking whenI invited friends to join me for dinner after I returned from Italy on Saturday. I had to chuckle with their reactions to my going to Italy….which calmed down considerably when I shared it is ZOOM. With Covid, going to Italy via ZOOM is a pretty good option with a bit of imagination in tow.
When I began imagining Esperienza in 2017, I consulted a friend of mine who was an expert on small business development. He thought the non-profit would have no future because only people like me want to go to rural Italy. And in his opinion, there were very few of us…
Seven years later, there is small but growing community of curious, caring, compassionate people who are embracing a new way of traveling. Not only do they want to stay in touch and come back to Romagna, they are inspired to make a difference in their own lives and the lives of others.